6.22.2010

Dinner Out @ Orchids at Palm Court

Orchids at Palm Court probably does not need an introduction for many Amateur Foodies readers. Named Cincinnati's #1 Restaurant by Cincinnati Magazine the past 2 years, Chef Todd Kelly (interviewed here by Epi-ventures) has led Orchid's to a clear spot as the restaurant to beat in the Queen City. And if our visit was any indication, stealing their perch is not going to be easy for anyone in town.




The Food: There were a number of things on the menu (which changes frequently) we'd never heard of, and as much as we pay attention to food and eat out, that is always impressive. We spent a while deciding on what to order, and then dove right in.

We ordered four first courses because this portion of the menu really jumped out to us as the most interesting. The Maine Lobster Salad, Braised Pork Belly, Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, and Marinated Yellowtail Tuna. But before any of our orders came, an
amuse-bouche! The salmon tartare - with crispy potato crouton on the bottom, as well as micro greens, ginger, cucumber water, lime oil, and salmon roe - was a great way to get us started. As we discussed the menu with the server, we knew Copper River salmon had just arrived, and it was clear the kitchen was ready to play.

The tuna and foie gras came first. With a nice buttery edge to the fish and sweet potato shavings on top, we had the first of what would be several opportunities to taste truly exquisite flavor combinations. Small pieces of soy sauce-flavored jelly worked well with the smoky Worcestershire aioli, brussel sprouts, and bacon. While they did know it was Sarah's birthday, we also may have gotten some blogger love as a syrupy sweet wine came along with foie gras, which was like a continuation of the foie's flavor. Foie gras was sitting on top of a sour cream pancake and was covered in a rich sauce of pear
mostarda, and small pieces of cocoa nib and dried corn primarily added texture to the dish. We found the foie gras to be good, but not great - not as seared as one would like in a perfect world. This was the "least awesome" of the four first courses.

Next up were the lobster salad - which I didn't realize until I'd had a bite was a play on traditional egg salad - and pork belly. The lobster was topped with a creme fraiche and caviar cream, an organic egg, and parsley, and also had thin strips of
brick paper (like phyllo dough) for added texture. Every bite was moist and cool, and the white wine they paired it with was perfect (I feel like we should mention this was when we started to wonder if they knew we were bloggers - wine pairings were brought without asking, which the server explained at the end of the night as being because of Sarah's birthday. More likely it's because a friend of ours that used to work there called to let them know we were coming - we didn't know this until after the evening). The pork belly had caraway micro greens, more of the soy sauce jelly pieces, cider and miso. When you got a bit of everything at once it was crunchy, oozy, salty, sweet, and chewy at the same time. It was as we were savoring these dishes that we felt like we could taste the season changing from spring to summer in every bite. It also seemed clear to us that this was, indeed, the best restaurant in Cincinnati.

For entrees, we had seared scallops and a prime ribeye from
Niman Ranch (also a supplier for Chipotle). The scallops came with a curry oil that was great, and had unagi (barbecue eel) on its side to go with carrots, microgreens, almonds, and a quail egg and orange on top, all on a bed of potato puree. They brought us a white Bordeaux that was like a Sauvignon Blanc - it was fresh and tingly with a nice balance, and went very well with the sweet scallop. I liked the scallops, but wasn't sure about the fishy flavor the unagi brought - however when I added very small bits of unagi it added to the other sweet things that were happening and wasn't so bad. It was another excellent dish in terms of varied textures, the crunchiness from the almonds was a nice touch. Our steak turned out to be what we thought of as the only normal thing we'd had during the whole meal, and as a result it was the only thing we weren't excited about. Red wine was matched well, but the hedgehog mushrooms and black truffle gnocchi simply did not wow. They'd set an awful high bar at this point. The steak also comes with a lobster mac and cheese that was aromatic for what it was, but was nothing to write home about either. This dish was most happily consumed as leftovers in a never-to-be-matched steak omlette the next morning.

We'd been told we must save room for dessert, so we did box up our steak and move on to the sweet options. There were some amazing desserts to choose from, but we chose the one they suggested "if you're a chocoholic." A macaroon-esque almond cookie was my favorite part of the very rich dessert. Sarah enjoyed the fluffy mouse that was adorned with a homemade Crunch bar, whipped cream, and a raspberry sauce.

Along with our check, the server brought a treat from the pastry chef before we left - trio of candies - a jelly, a macaroon, and a chocolate with peanut butter inside that was topped with gold dust.

The Ingredients: There were a number of sources noted on the menu, but it was hard to get a sense of how many were local. I hadn't heard of many of the producers, and some Googling based on the menu that's online currently (which is exactly or very close to the same) didn't get me much more information. Orchids also notes organic ingredients in a few places, and in general, it is clear they are paying close attention to top notch ingredients.

The Story, Setting, & Service: Our server was a smiler, and he really helped break down our biggest concern - that Orchids would be stuffy and overly pretentious. To be realistic, sitting in a dining room like they have at the Hilton Netherland Plaza, you'll never feel at home (unless you are very, very wealthy) - it's just a matter of whether it feels good to try on such opulence for a night, or if it makes you uncomfortable.

We've gone to the hotel bar a couple times before, and when we've peaked into Orchids its been darn near empty. When we sat down, there were a handful of other diner's present, and since it was just a bit before a Reds game, the full bar made it feel lively. By the time we were done eating, there were only three others at the restaurant, but by that time we were so smitten by the food that the atmosphere was an afterthought.

A beautiful orchid-strewn centerpiece, a cushy circular booth, live piano playing in the back, staff that regularly use their
Table Crumbers - it is the ceaseless attention to detail that takes this from more than an amazing meal and up to an overall special experience. Sarah went to the bathroom, they came by and took her barely used, but no longer perfectly folded napkin, and replaced it before she came back. They were patient with us as we ate slowly and savored every bite, delivering dishes at just the right time, every time. And speaking of delivering dishes - the entrees come underneath dome covers on platters, and the staff take the domes off at exactly the same time. I saw them do it at other tables, so knew it was coming, and was still impressed.

The Last Bite (hereby beginning what will become an Amateur Foodies outro tradition - Sarah and I both always leave the best bite on our plates for last, so this will be the last word on the food, including our favorite last bites): Orchid's is a place that you simply have to go if you love food and want to sample the best. We took the opportunity of Sarah's last day of school/birthday as our special occasion to warrant a trip. It's actually not that much more expensive than most of the other "nice" restaurants in town, and you can even skip the entrees and just do first and second courses to make it more affordable. The combination of a truly decadent room, top notch service, and amazing food make this a place you can't make any more excuses not to visit. I may never forget the Maine Lobster Salad, and Sarah couldn't stop talking about both the tuna and the pork belly.



Orchids at Palm Court on Urbanspoon

6.21.2010

Existential Eating #13 Revisited

Last week, we had a contest of sorts to give a caption to the comic below.  Well, congratulations to holly may!  She'll be receiving some olives shortly.  Here's the new version of the comic...



If you have any suggestions or ideas for future Existential Eating strips, please email or comment below.  Sadly, our current collective imagination will run dry.  If its related to food, it can be the topic of an Existential       Eating comic strip.  Just share your idea and Ramsey will do his best to draw it up (probably, someday).

6.18.2010

Tasty Links #13

1) So I can't eat all the salt I want?!  Funny, it was an Alton Brown cookbook that made me think it was ok.
2) How to properly heat your pan. The link at the beginning to a piece by Harold McGee in the NY Times is worth a read as well.
3) I'm still not sure where to get the chicken wings in Cincinnati, but these look pretty good for another home recipe.

And your video...

6.17.2010

Lunch In @ Island Frydays

If you're looking for a change up - a new food option with big flavors has been open on Short Vine in Clifton for about a year now - it's a Jamaican spot called Island Frydays and it does not disappoint.  I had spotted it a while back, but just got to lunch there earlier this week.  Here's a quick post about the food, which I definitely recommend.

The Food:  Lately, I rarely choose what I'm going to order.  Instead, I ask the server/proprietor to give me the best thing on the menu.  Sometimes I'll add that I want the thing with the most flavor.  Sometimes I get a rambling answer, but usually I know I'm on to something when there is a quick, unequivocal response like, in this case, "the jerk chicken."  I often push a little after that - "you're sure?"  When they stick to their guns, you can usually tell you're about to eat something good.  They do ask if you want dark or white meat, to which I replied - whatever has the most flavor.  I started out as a white meat eater, but slowly but surely I've learned that there is no comparison - dark meat is clearly the winner, and they did not lead me astray.

There is a large for $10, but for $8 the small plate is plenty for one person.  Rice and beans, steamed veggies, plantains, and chicken all come stuffed in a styrofoam container for take out.  Let me start by simply saying this is some of the best chicken I've had period, in quite a while.  And it was the best jerk chicken I've eaten in years.  I've had jerk chicken that's been too dry, but this was moist and very flavorful - spicy from the pepper, sweet, salty, and blackened, adding up to well rounded bites every single time.  I usually don't eat the skin, but this was too flavorful to pass up.  The only thing I'd do differently is ask them not to chop it (or to chop it as little as possible) because there were a number of little bites of bone I had to be careful of.  But this chicken was so good, I was intent on eating every possible morsel.

A UC News Record review on Island Fryday's website suggested to ask for gravy on the rice and pinto beans, and it was definitely the right move since they were pretty bland standing alone.  With the sauce, they were quite tasty.  The vegetables included cabbage, green beans, peas, corn, and carrots.  With enough salt and butter to have some flavor, these did not match the chicken's star power, and settle for being unobtrusive.  The plantains were standard - if you want a lot order a side with a small, because it only comes with a couple bites.  I like them more crispy, so I personally wouldn't bother.

I'm excited to go back to try the oxtail and a number of other dishes at Island Fryday's - if they are anywhere near as good as the jerk chicken, I'll be very happy.

The Ingredients:  Nothing about local or organic on the menu.  I was quickly in and out on this trip, but plan to ask more about where they get everything on my next trip.  And the next trip won't be far away.

The Story, Setting, & Service:  This was a quick trip in and out for a to go order, so not much to say on this front.  The staff was friendly and quick, the space was bright with sun, and the yellow exterior seems to glow all the way to the inside.  There are a few seats if you want to sit down and enjoy your meal while you listen to some reggae on the radio.

Just up the hill from OTR, this is a quick hop, skip, and a jump for me at lunch time.  There's no need to call ahead, the food is ready so fast.  I look forward to my next trip to Island Frydays - you should try it too.

Island Frydays on Urbanspoon

6.16.2010

Dinner Out @ Jo An Japanese

Most times, you go to a restaurant and find that some of what others have said jives with your experience, and other times not so much. In the case of our trip to Jo An Japanese, it was exactly what we'd been told to expect. Yes, it's smack dab in the middle of an office park. And yes, it very likely has the best sushi in Cincinnati (well, Erlanger, Kentucky actually).


The Food: I should say from the start the we barely even looked at the non-sushi menu. A quick order of sashimi salad (small bits of tuna, salmon, shrimp, and yellowtail mixed in with wakame) tided over our hunger, and it was fantastic. At most places, less wakame with no fish is about the same cost ($6). But we were here on a mission: sushi. Choices are made from a paper sheet where you mark what you want (is this really necessary - why don't they just ask you what'd like and save the paper?) as well as another menu with a front and back for specialty rolls. Here's what we ordered, and what we thought of it. With so many items, a bulleted list seems sensible:
  • Salmon nigiri sushi - As you may recall from our last post about sushi, I've been trending toward the "less is more" approach on sushi. It's hard to pass up all the fancy and colorful combinations that are available, but every time I take a bite where I can't taste the fish, I move one step closer to being an all nigiri/sashimi guy. This salmon was colorful, and had none of the mealiness to the meat that you sometimes get - these were smooth bites, with no tearing through anything needed.
  • Spicy tuna roll - Scallions added a crunch, and overall this roll had a nice texture. It was not too spicy, which is in part why it may be Sarahs new favorite spicy tuna roll in town (it used to be Bangkok Bistro).
  • Spicy shrimp roll - A clean, crisp snap from the cucumber, went well with the spicy mayo that adds a kick. This was the roll that led me to thinking how strikingly well put together Jo An's rolls were, after just eating Bangkok Bistro's sushi.
  • Salmon crunch roll - Texture in food can be so underutilized. From the crunch in our wedding cake to the tempura crunch in this roll - we are really enjoying what crunch can add to just about anything. This roll also had a lot of sesame seeds on the outside, which were very tasty. But, this was one roll where a bit too much rice made it hard for me to taste the fish on a couple bites. That said, the salmon, crunch, and avocado paired so well together - this was my favorite choice of the night.
  • Spicy baked slamon roll - I just mentioned the avacado, and on this roll - where it is sliced thin and laid on top of each piece, it became clear that this tropical vegetable really was delicious. The masago (capelin roe) also added a different texture to this roll.
  • Jo An roll - This was one of those double-wide size rolls where you're not sure if you should (or even could) eat it all in one bite. It was very tasty, and we liked that soybean paper - which held the roll together, but also was barely distinguishable in taste and broke easily as we chose the multiple bite method. With salmon, tuna, yellowtail, avocado, and tobiko (flying fish roe) on top, there is a lot going on here. The plate is then covered with a pattern of spicy mayonnaise and a hoisin-esque brown sauce, and the total package is something you'll want to taste.
In general, we thought all of the rolls had a buttery taste and mouth feel that was quite enjoyable.
A couple of small additional notes. First, they use ginger that is ginger colored, not pink. I always like that, makes me feel like I'm ingesting one less unnecessary substance. Second, I was surprised to learn that the salmon was from Norway. I assumed a top place would use something Pacific. The refrain again: lots yet to learn about sushi.


The Ingredients: No mention of any local or organic ingredients on the menu. I will say that there were some types of fish and roe that I hadn't noticed on a menu before. That's not saying too much, because I still have a lot of learning to do about sushi (in fact, I just ordered this book today), but it is to say that the menu at Jo An is substantial.


The Story, Setting, & Service: Jo An's is hard to find - Google maps on my phone got it wrong the first time. It's totally nondescript - check the barely visible sign in the slideshow below. There was even a janitor vacuuming in the entry of the office building when we went in - everything about this place said "we don't exist." A hot towel is brought when you sit down, which is a nice touch (remember when Delta did that?). The service is straightforward. One of the staff asked if we were food bloggers - that camera can be a giveaway! Muzak/easy listening on the radio. There were a few other folks there when we arrived at about 8:15, and there was only one other person at 9. Not a busy spot on a Wednesday night. On the way out we noticed that they serve a lunch too - $12 for sushi and what they said was a great deal. It's chef choice, so who knows. They also had non-sushi options for $8.

I doubt we'll go back to Jo An's often. If we're going out only for the sushi, then we will. But most times, we like the full package, and Jo An's offers so little in the way of ambiance that it's probably not ever going to get a lot of traffic - especially being in Erlanger. Hopefully the city sushi places will step up their game to make the drive totally unnecessary, but for now you should at least go once.



Jo An Japanese on Urbanspoon

6.13.2010

Existential Eating #13

This week for Existential Eating we have a contest.  We'll post the best caption for the comic below (purely our opinion) next week AND the winner will be sent a jar of tasty olives!  Here's a few and then a blank one for you...


If you have any suggestions or ideas for future Existential Eating strips, please email or comment below.  Sadly, our current collective imagination will run dry.  If its related to food, it can be the topic of an Existential Eating comic strip.  Just share your idea and Ramsey will do his best to draw it up (probably, someday).

6.11.2010

Dinner Out @ Bangkok Bistro

I honestly can't remember how it started, but Bangkok Bistro has been a go to restaurant of mine for almost as long as I've lived in Cincinnati (10 years).  For at least a couple years, I was a more serious regular - going once a week or every two at most.  Over the past few years though, it's become part of a long list of places Sarah and I go sometimes, but not all that often.  But, as with any old standard, I'm always happy when I sit down and order the same thing I've ordered for a decade that is always, always good.

The Food:  There are two regular dishes we always order.  First, the "General Fare" Thai Basil Sauce, which is stir-fried with broccoli, mushrooms, carrots, baby corn, onions, and green peppers (although we remember to ask for no green peppers about every fourth time we go - nothing against Bangkok Bistro, we just don't like green peppers very much). You can get it with any meat, but we always get it with tofu.  Second is Laad Na Noodles, which is a flat, wide rice noodle that comes with chicken, shrimp, and vegetables (same as the Thai Basil, sans peppers).

At some point along the way, we also got into the habit of ordering sushi to start.  In general, Bangkok's spicy tuna roll has been a favorite of ours.  Unfortunately, I think it is suffering in the context of paying more attention to our sushi.  On this most recent trip the roll was not tightly wrapped and had an awful lot of rice.  It wasn't bad, but it's definitely been better.

Thankfully, the entrees arrived and made everything right.  The Thai Basil is the star.  They pack it wish basil and garlic, and no small amount of sugar, and it really packs a punch of flavor.  Tofu is cooked just right, and the vegetables all get a nice coating of the savory brown sauce.  Sarah probably had the quote that hits it most on the end - "there are flavors that hit you all over the place."  Next, Bangkok's laad na noodles are done differently than anywhere I've eaten them before or since.  Most places do some variation on the noodles with Chinese broccoli and a thick brown sauce.  I suppose BB's may be a more Americanized version, but I don't care what you call it, these are some tasty noodles.  Again, no shortage of sugar, and the crunchy carrots add a nice texture to the bites.  As is almost always the case (at just about any restaurant), the shrimp could be cooked less.  Overall, both the Thai Basil and the Laad Na Noodles are trustworthy standbys that I'm always pleased to put in my mouth.

The Ingredients:  There's nothing on Bangkok's menu about local or organic ingredients.  They did add brown rice a few years back, which is a nice, healthy addition.  But, beyond that, nothing I'm aware of.  Whichever is the first Thai place in town to jump on board the local train will probably win my heart for many years to come, so I'm hopeful Bangkok Bistro will be the one.

The Story, Setting, & Service:  As I said above, I've been coming here for quite a while.  My friend Ali, through whom I met Sarah many years back, and I would eat here almost obsessively.  It was about the only place I'd spend $15 an entree when I was 23 and I think it made me feel all grown up to be spending such a large amount.  Ah, the memories.

The service at Bangkok Bistro has been through a phase or two, but there aren't many places in town that I would say haven't.  On this visit, and the last several I can remember, the service has been pleasant and straightforward.  They've got a few folks on staff there who have been there for as long as I've been going, so they must be doing something right.

And as far as setting goes, this is one of the BB perks.  They have a small outdoor eating space in front of the restaurant, which gives you, the diner, a great vantage point to watch the comings and goings of what I call "little Hyde Park Square."  If you go during the day or early evening, you're only a short drive up the hill to beautiful Ault Park - which is a destination in and of itself if you haven't strolled through its gardens, enjoyed its vista views, or hiked its trails.  On a gorgeous night like the one we had, sitting outside as the sun is falling, it's a pretty sweet set up.  Inside, the restaurant is simple and calm, and there is plenty of space, so you never bump into anybody's chair.

If Bangkok Bistro keeps Thai Basil and Laad Na Noodles on the menu, we will always go back.  Every once in a while, we may even try something else.  As far as a consistently tasty Thai place that you can count on, I'd say this is a sure shot every time.



Bangkok Bistro on Urbanspoon